Monday, July 27, 2009

WEEKS 16-18

Trinidad
- the ferry from Venezuela to Trinidad is run by Trinidadians ... as we leave Venezuela behind, we also say goodbye to speaking Spanish ... we get hot dogs and they come with homemade pepper sauce ... things are good
- the upper level of the ferry is out in the open, and they have good music pumping out of big speakers ... we spend most of our time up there, watching some of the crew dancing with some of the female passengers (we´re assuming they already knew each other)
- night falls, and we approach Trinidad, getting a fantastic skyline of lights along the coastline of Port of Spain
- we then turn north and dock in Chaguaramas ... we have to do another customs check as we exit the boat ... thankfully, they don´t ask us for proof of departure
- we get off the boat, and form another line for a dog to come sniff our bags ... then we have to form yet another line, this time for bag inspection
- they go through our bags pretty thoroughly, and Isaac almost loses his sleeping bag in the process (it dropped and rolled away)
- finally we get out and head to the parking lot, where we are met by my mom´s friend Caramae and her friend Michael ... big hugs with Caramae - haven´t seen her in way too many years, after having spent time with her fairly often when growing up as a kid
- we get our bags in the boot of Michael´s car, and we´re off ... officially in Trinidad, and officially driving on the left side of the road
- we head to St. James, where Michael takes us to an outdoor night-time roti shop (turns out roti at night is practically impossible to get in Trinidad ... other than in St. James) ... he knows the people who run the shop, and he hooks us up with super delicious beef roti, and so begins sensory overload on all the amazing foods of T&T!
- Michael drives Caramae off to swap over to her car, and Isaac and I grab a Carib to wash down the food ("a beer IS a Carib")
- Caramae returns to pick us up, and we head to her house in Curepe ... there we are greeted by Caramae´s daughter Zoe ... great big hugs again ... and then we take our bags inside and get settled
- next, Zoe takes us out for late-night doubles in Curepe ... again, delicious!
- back at the house, it´s Royal Oak rum with Coke, while we all chat and eventually watch a movie before going to bed fairly late
- next day, we don´t get up until close to noon (was there a time change in there somewhere?)
- after a bit of Zoe´s homemade marcaroni pie and Caramae´s homemade calaloo (not to mention some spicy fried channa), we head out with Caramae and drive to Port of Spain to try to get visas for Suriname and Brazil
- on the way, we make a quick stop at a strip mall to hit a bank machine and get passport photos taken
- we find both consulates, but it turns out neither of them process visa applications in the afternoon (oops) ... we are at least able to get an application form for Suriname
- it´s too early to head back home (traffic out of Port of Spain is apparently ridiculous at the best of times), so we take a tour of Movietowne, which apparently is the place to be ... movie theatres, restaurants, bars, shops, etc.
- we head to the Fiesta Plaza section at the back, where there is a big courtyard with outdoor seating for several surrounding restaurants ... we settle on the Irish restaurant J Malone´s
- beers / drinks later, enough time has passed that we can head back to Curepe ... when we get back, Zoe takes us to KFC (yes, Kentucky Fried Chicken) ... I remember their spicy chicken being better than any fried chicken I´ve had, and for many years, one KFC in Port of Spain was the top selling KFC worldwide!
- so we head to one KFC, but it´s packed ... so we opt for a different one and get some spicy chicken ... which turns out to be just so-so (the pepper sauce out of a pump bottle was very good though) ... Zoe is confident the reason the chicken wasn´t better is that we went to the wrong location ... either way, that was the beginning and end of our KFC experience
- no sleeping in the next day, so we had an early night
- next day, we get moving at a decent hour ... first stop is the Suriname consulate ... the people there are very nice, and even though we had been told the application could take up to 3 days, they process our visas right there and then ... only catch is that we have to pay for the visa at a specific Scotia Bank (and then return with proof of payment)
- we hit the bank and may our payment ... then we grab lunch at a nearby Chinese restaurant that Caramae knew to be very popular
- back at the consulate, we gave them our proof of payment, and we left the building with pretty new visas attached to our passports
- we then hit the Brazil consulate again, knowing they wouldn´t take our visa applications, but we were at least able to pick up the forms, and get a few questions answered (like how long it would take, how much it would cost, etc.)
- turns out for the application, we absolutely need proof of entry into Brazil (and not exit??) ... since we planned to enter the country by some random boat from French Guyana, we needed to doctor up some fake itineraries, "prooving" we´d be flying into Brazil ... luckily, we were able to get help from Kate (same Kate that joined us for a bit in Colombia) ... she works at a travel agency, and she was able to create "authentic" travel documents for us ... fantastic!
- after the consulate, it was once again too early to head into that Port of Spain traffic ... this time we went to a mall, and Isaac found a new pair of much needed shoes at the Puma Store
- after shopping, we hit St. James again, this time for incredibly yummy and incredibly cheap homemade ice cream
- back in Curepe, Zoe then took Isaac and me to get (desperately needed) haircuts from a local hairdress she knows
- when we got back to the house, Zak (Caramae´s son) was there with his friend Talia ... big hugs and sorrel shandies later, Zak, Talia, Zoe, Isaac and myself go out to Ruby Tuesday´s
for "one drink" (turns out if you aren´t at Movie Towne, you´re either at Ruby Tuesday´s or T.G.I. Fridays ... then again, there´s a Ruby Tuesday´s at Movietowne too!)
- one drink quickly becomes three or four, and suddenly it´s getting late, we Isaac and I still need to head south to San Fernando, because we´re going to be staying there with my uncle Gary!
- Caramae and Zoe drive us to San Fernando, and with a bit of cell phone direction from Gary, we´re able to find the house in Vistabella ... where we are greeted by my uncle and his girlfriend, Gabby (and an endless supply of some of the best mangoes ever, growing in abundance in their back yard)
- we say goodbye to Caramae and Zoe, crack open a bottle of Black Label rum, and sit and chat and listen to music outside, in a sitting area under the house
- next thing we know, it´s after 3am, and we´re all ready to go to sleep ... and that´s when Gary´s daughter, Denisha (visiting from Florida) comes home buzzing with energy from a night of clubbing at a place called Space (apparently has the look and feel of a spaceship) ... so a quick hello to my cousin, and then we´re all off to bed
- next day, we get up in time for brunch ... we all head to neighbouring Mirabella, where there´s a restaurant that has a great selection of Trinidadian foods ... I get curried potatoes and curried goat to go with bus-up-shut roti (and homemade pepper sauce of course ... always!)
- after the meal, we hit the grocery store to stock up on snack foods and beverages (Peardrax, sorrel, solo banana, etc.)
- back at the house, we chilled out unti the evening came ... then we all went to the Naparima Bowl for a dance performance (Gabby had scored us all free tickets) ... we were all hoping for some authentic local dancing, but we wound up getting mostly contemporary ballet (and not very good at that) ... at least the show was free! And we also got to meet a couple of Gabby´s coworkers (who were a riot) and their kids
- after the show, we headed to downtown San Fernando to the area with all the bars and popular restaurants ... there we got out at a long stretch of food stands, and we got super yummy bake and shark sandwiches
- back at the house, Gary hung out with us for a bit before we all called it a night and went to bed
- next morning, Gabby made us breakfast of eggs sausage and toast ... then she took us out to do some visiting
- first stop was to see my grandmother, who lives just a few minutes away ... granny was looking great, and we had a very nice visit on the front porch, and then later in the kitchen (with a snack and a drink) ... she also gave Isaac fold-up maps of Trinidad and Tobago, to help him with his bearings
- next stop was a short drive over to see my Tanty Kim (my grandma´s sister) ... Kim was also looking great, and completely full of energy
- Kim is blind, but you´d never guess it the way she gets along in her house ... Gabby needed Kim to sign a piece of paper, and Kim seriously has better handwriting than I do! (not that that´s saying much really)
- cousin Sheila was over helping with things, so I met her, and she made aloo pie for us to go with the freshly squeezed orange juice Kim had made that morning
- after
another nice porch visit, we headed back to the house, where we didn´t do too much for the rest of the day, but I did clean up Gary´s laptop, while Isaac worked on Denisha´s ... they are both now happily able to download music via torrents
- for dinner, Gabby made pelau with pig´s tail ... tasty stuff ... the rest of the night was more time on the patio, chatting and listening to music
- next day, Gabby headed off to work ... but she left lunch already made for us ... super yummy ox-tail and dumpling soup
- Gary gave us a bit of a tour of all the renovations he´s done to the house ... the house looks amazing, and it sounds like it´s come a long way from how it was before the renovations began ... we also had a visit from Denissia, one of Gary and Gabby´s neighbours
- as evening approached, Lana came by to pick us up and take us out ... Lana is the neice of a good friend of my mom (and of Caramae) ... I´d never met Lana before, but my parents were quite insistent I call her and arrange to get together ... well good thing they did, because Lana is a beautiful and fun bundle of energy (who apparently never goes out)
- introductions are made, and we head off to pick up her friend La Toya (who is in town from Belgium, visiting her family)
- the four of us head to T.G.I. Friday´s (at least we never went to a Tuesday´s on a Tuesday, nor a Friday´s on a Friday) ... where we get drinks and eats and start shooting the breeze about anything and everything ... and everyone has a really great time ... and next thing you know, it´s late and we have to go, because Lana has to get up early in the morning to go to work
- so next day comes, and Lana comes by the house, bringing us roti for lunch (Gabby had also made cow-heel soup, which I liked, but Isaac wasn´t into)
- Lana visited for a while, then headed back to work for a fairly short afternoon ... when she was done, she came back to the house to pick us up to head up north ... she dropped us off at Movietowne, while she continued on to her night-time work meeting at the Radisson (two minutes away)
- Isaac and I headed to Fiesta Plaza, and got outdoor seats at Woodford Cafe ... there we were met by Zak ... we´d come to see his buddy sing later in the evening
- turns out Zak spends way too much time at Woodford Cafe ... he seemed to know everyone, including some of the staff (then again, I suppose the same can be said of Isaac and myself in certain bars in Portland)
- what Zak didn´t know is that Woodford Cafe has beer flutes / bongs (same idea as we experienced in Bogota) ... so we happily introduced him to the concept
- our devil-sent waitress kept coming up to chat with us, with the objective of selling us shots ... we kept saying no until Zak´s friend Zola joined us, and in a moment of group weakness, we caved in and regretted it for the rest of the evening
- eventually, the show started, so we all moved inside to hear Zak´s friend sing ... we were eventually joined by Zoe (who had been out with her uncle for dinner) ... and then later by Lana, after her meeting ended
- we watched the show for a bit, but we had a long ride home, and an early morning ahead of us, so we said goodbye to Zak and Zoe, and then Lana dropped us home at Gary´s
- EoW

Tobago
- next morning, we got up early, with our bags packed
- we said our farewells to Gary, and drove off with Gabby ... she took us to the San Fernando Water Taxi Terminal
- after big thank yous and goodbyes, Gabby headed off to work, and Isaac and I got on a water taxi to Port of Spain ... the boat was quite bit and comfortable, and the trip was fairly quick and uneventful
- in Port of Spain, the water taxi let us off at the Breakfast Shed ... an eating area surrounded by several different kitchens offering various local foods ... we got fresh juice, and I had a Jamaican patty, while Isaac got macaroni pie and calaloo
- after our snack, we walked a couple of blocks to the Port of Spain Terminal, where we checked in for the ferry from Trinidad to Tobago ... this ferry was much bigger, with an entire level available for cars, and then an upper level for passengers, with a bar and a restaurant, and tv screens all over the place
- the ride took more than a couple of hours, but it was enjoyable ... it only started to suck when we arrived in Scarborough and they wouldn´t let us off the boat! At first, we thought there was an issue with the ramp, but after standing in line for several minutes, the speakers came on, and everyone was told to go back upstairs ... after at least half an hour of waiting, the speakers came on again and simply said, "you can go now, just please make sure to check in with your local health authority as soon as possible"!!! ... we never did get full details as to why we were delayed, nor did we ever check in with any health authority
- we got off the boat, got our bags, and headed for the taxis ... after a lot of haggling, we finally settled on a so-so price, and we headed off to towards Crown Point
- we had reservations at Kia´s Across from the Beach, so we got the taxi to drop us off exactly where Karen (who runs Kia´s) instructed us ... however, we couldn´t find Kia´s!! After a lot of searching, we find a sign hidden by some trees that indicated that the private property in front of us was in fact the guest-house ... only problem was that no one was there to greet us (even though Karen knew to expect us)
- luckily, a local was also looking for Karen ... he called her, and she showed up a few minutes later, saying she had just stepped away for a moment, and we must have just missed her
- overall, the house is pretty, and Karen is very friendly, but we weren´t in love with our room ... mosquitoes were a problem, and the beds weren´t very comfortable (mine even fell apart the first night, forcing us to reposition the wooden boards under the matress)
- still, we settled in, and the walked down the main road, getting a good idea of the different shops around us ... I had a flying fish sandwich, and we bought a bunch of food and drink supplies from Jimmy´s Mini-Mart (across the street from us)
- we spent the rest of the evening in our room, watching movies we´d already seen but loved ... including Forgetting Sarah Marshall (which we then started quoting at length ... this lasted for the rest of our time in T&T)
- next day, we headed to the beach ... it took about five minutes to walk to Store Bay ... it wasn´t exactly as I remembered it from years ago ... no big waves for bodysurfing (apparently that´s seasonal), and most of the beach was covered in lounge chairs under umbrellas ... but the sand and water were still spectacular
- we haggled a bit and got two long chairs and an umbrella for pretty cheap ... then we settled in for a day of sun and water ... it felt like ages since we´d last been on a beach, now it felt like we were in paradise
- the day passed quickly, but we left the beach feeling like we´d had a great day ... especially since we had several more beach days to look forward to
- we had noticed there was pretty much nowhere to buy booze to take home with you (i.e. the mini-mart didn´t sell alcohol) ... but Karen told us where to go to find a real grocery store ... so we headed out to the Penny Savers ... the walk took a while, but we were able to find beer and rum (Old Oak this time) ... it only started to suck on the walk back when the rains came ... and then it started to pour!
- we got back to our room drenched, but we had food and booze, so we were good for the rest of the night
- next day, we went back to Store Bay ... this day was cloudier, but we were still able to enjoy a few nice hours at the beach ... until the rain came in the later afternoon ... this sent us home, and since the rain persisted for several hours, we again stayed in, after restocking on essential "gourmet" food items like sausages and other meats from a can, and bread, and tuna, and mustard, and pepper sauce, and kurma, and channa, and salt prunes, and pringles, and ... etc.
- next day, there is a knock on the window to our room at 6:30am or so ... it´s Lana and Zoe!! They decided to come join us for the weekend, but were only able to get the crazy early morning flight out ... we had a room booked for them at Kia´s, but Karen was still sleeping at her house (not close to Kia´s) ... she wasn´t going to be there for a couple of hours, so the girls made another phone call, and got a room a short walk away, at a place called Candles by the Wind
- I got up (Isaac wasn´t about to get out of bed), and walked with the girls to their guest-house ... their room was more expensive than what we had at Kia´s, but it was also way better (at that time, what we were spending at Kia´s was the most we´d spent for any room on the trip, but this was merely the beginning of expensive rooms ahead of us)
- we hang out in the room for a while, watching the women´s final for Wimbledon ... but it gets boring after Serena wins the first set ... so I head back to Kia´s and Isaac and I get ready for the beach
- the girls do the same, and meet us at Kia´s ... then we all head to Store Bay ... the weather is great again, and the local have started to learn we aren´t interested in tours, and our guy with the beach chairs and umbrellas is ready for us
- Lana buys mango chow and pineapple chow and tamarind balls, and we´re treated to other local delights ... and then we have dumplings and gravy (curry sauce) for lunch ... yummy, yummy
- we take turns watching the bags and being in the water ... the girls try to stay out of the sun, Isaac tries to stay in it, and I opt for a mix of both ... we eventually get Lana to join us for some frisbee action ... as well as a bunch of local guys who keep begging us to throw the frisbee into their group so that they can battle over it
- eventually, the chair guy tells us it´s packing up time ... signalling the end of our beach day ... we head back to our guesthouses and make arrangements to meet up later
- night comes, and we meet up with the girls, and we head to the "happening night spot", according to Karen ... turns out to be a club with a dress code, and it doesn´t even open for a couple of hours!
- we bail on that idea, and Lana decided to go to the Chinese restaurant that she has been to twice before, and has had bad food from them both times!?? She gets wantons, thinking it´s almost impossible to mess those up ... well, they tasted edible ... but Lana has (finally) learned her lesson and will never get food from there again
- next we stopped at a too-touristy bar and we all had a much too-pricey cocktail that was mediocre at best ... try as we might to have a good evening, the island just wasn´t cooperating ... until we hit our next step . WYSIWYG ... a little bar on Pigeon Point Road
- the atmosphere here is friendlier and the prices are better ... the music is also really good ... we settle in, get drinks and a bit of food, and start to have a good time
- then things get crazy when a big group of Colombians join us ... they are hammered on Puncheon (screech), and they want to party ... more than anything, they want to know how to "wine", so we coax Lana and (especially) Zoe to teach them how to move their hips properly ... this leads to much laughter, and a lot of dancing ... and this continued for the rest of our night (the Colombians wound up going to the aforementioned club)
- after WYSIWYG, we drop the girls off at Candles, and head back to Kia´s and call it a night
- next day we check out of Kia´s and get a room at Candles ... it´s not as good as the room the girl´s got (apparently they got a deal, because it was the only room left at the time) ... but the room is a noticeable upgrade from Kia´s, and worth the extra money
- we all watch the men´s marathon Wimbledon final, and then the girls celebrate while Isaac and I (especially me) cry over the wrong person winning
- we head over to Pizza Boys for lunch ... we split a pretty tasty Hawaian pizza ... of course, the pepper sauce helps
- then we all head out for a lengthy walk to Pigeon Point ... turns out it´s some huge international food day, so there are many tents, live music, and a gazillion people at the beach
- unfortunately, the beach here is nothing like I remembered ... apparently a reef was put into the water to try to prevent people from entering the area for free ... but this reef was ruining the rest of the beach ... instead of the beautiful clear water I was expecting, the water was all cloudy and full of plant life ... a big disappointment
- still, we made the most of the afternoon, getting some sun, and all four of us playing frisbeen in the sand (Zoe insisted she´d suck at all, but she wound up being pretty good)
- we walked through the food area to check out the action, but most things were already sold out ... we had a drink at the bar section, then packed up to walk back to Candles
- on the way out of the parking lot, Zoe found a very expensive looking phone ... she called the first number, and it went to a girl in Trinidad ... that girl was able to track down the guy who had lost the phone, and he called and arranged to pick up his phone from Zoe and Candles
- by the time we get back to the guest-house, it´s already dark ... we go our separate ways to shower, etc. ... then we reconvene and head out for dinner ... before we left, the guy shows up to get his phone (and tries to forget his friend´s phone in the process)
- we wind up at a very posh restaurant just off of Pigeon Point Road (on Andrew´s recommendation ... the guy who runs Candles) ... the prices are up there, but not too extreme, and we´re all feeling up to a bit of indulgence
- the service was a bit lacking (as in the norm for T&T, according to Zoe and Lana), but the food was pretty tasty, and the drinks were very strong ... more importantly, the company was stellar, so we naturally had a fantastic dinner
- after food, we head back to Candles and sit at a table just outside the girls´room ... there we spend the rest of the night sitting by the table, listening to various iPods through Isaac´s portable speaker, and drinking the last of the rum we have
- next day, we head back to Store Bay ... it´s the last day for the girls, but the weather is gorgeous, and we make the most of the few hours we have, sun, water, chairs, umbrellas, food, and good conversation
- we´ve barely blinked, and it´s time to go ... a quick trip back to Candle´s to change and check out ... then we all walk to the airport (gotta love being able to walk to the airport!)
- we stop off for a quick drink, and then we are forced to say goodbye to Lana and Zoe ... they enter the depature area, and Isaac and I are left to walk back to Candles, feeling like something is missing ... as soon as the girls left, our energy level dropped, and our desire to party disappeared completely ... things just weren´t anywhere near as "fun" without them
- we wind up making use of the kitchen in Candles, having macaroni and cheese for dinner ... then we spent the rest of the evening chilling out in front of the tv (Knocked Up was on, which helped life our spirits some)
- the next three days followed a very similar routine ... Store Bay during the day (the beach was still awesome, and we weren´t sick of it in the slightest ... daily doses of sun, water and frisbee), followed by a bit of internet at the cafe that Lana pointed out to us on our way to the airport, followed by cooking something simple and cheap in the kitchen for dinner (and/or snacking on the other mini-mart foods we´d grown accustomed to) and chilling out in our room, doing a bunch of nothing exciting ... overall, our last three days in Tobago were all about the beach ... so the days were good, and the nights were completely uneventful
- EoW

Trinidad
- the following day, we packed up our bags, checked out, and grabbed a taxi to Scarborough, where we got in line to check in for the ferry back to Trinidad ... coming from Trinidad, we thought the check in line was a bit slow, chaotic, and completely unnecessary ... that was heaven compared to the line-up procedure in Tobago! ... the line barely moved, everyone cut in, you had to spend the majority of the time outside under intense sun, and this was all after you had already purchased a ticket!
- eventually we get in, and shortly after we board and are on our way ... being familiar with the ferry this time round, we head straight for the bar area, where we proceed to compete with every table around us for most beers consumed (except each of those tables has three guys, and we´ve also downed a rum punch each)
- we win the competition anyway (well, we tied with one table, but the rum punch put us over), and we pull into Port of Spain without ever feeling like we were on the water for very long
- Lana picks us up at the terminal, and we head off to Movietowne (once again forced to avoid the traffic leaving Port of Spain)
- Lana also has a present for me, a book called Cote Ci, Cote La ... it´s full of Trini slang, along with corresponding definitions and explanations ... definitely useful when talking to locals!
- we grab tickets for a later movie (the early show is already sold out), and head up to Ruby Tuesday´s ... Zoe shows up not long after, and we all get drinks and food
- a bit later, Zak shows up and we move to a bigger table and have another round of drinks
- soon after, it´s time to head downstairs for the movie ... we go to see The Proposal ... a fun, romantic comedy ... everyone enjoys it ... save Zak, who seems like he is in hell from beginning to end
- after the movie, we grab drinks at Fiesta Plaza ... this time at Zanzibar (between J Malone and Woodford Cafe) ... we run into La Toya and her family ... and then some relatives of Zoe and Zak ... and then Talia shows up and joins us (so pretty much everyone we´ve met in Trinidad happens to be at Movietowne on the same night)
- we drink and chat for a while, and it gets late and we get tired ... we say goodbye to Zak and Talia ... big hugs to Talia, because we probably won´t see her again ... then Lana drives the rest of us back to Curepe, where we are reunited with Caramae (and our passports, which we had left with Caramae before we went to Tobago ... she had taken them with our applications and dropped them off at the Brazil consulate for us ... and now our passports had visas to Brazil in them!)
- the house is a little more full than before, with Caramae´s neice and nephew staying there, as well as Zak´s older daughter, Kristen (later joined by Zak´s younger daughter, Kloe)... Isaac and I return to "our" room (the one we had previously), and Lana takes the couches downstairs, pushing them togeher to make something of a bed
- next day, Zoe´s friend Kaye shows up, and she, Lana, Zoe, Isaac and myself pile into Lana´s car, and we head out on a windy yet scenic drive to Maracas Beach ... we entertain ourselves with the Cote Ci, Cote La book, with me picking random slang terms, and the girls either explaining what it means, or discovering a new word they´d never heard before ... they also really liked to laugh at my attempts at pronouncing the terms properly
- we get to the beach (after a viewpoint stop where we bought pineapple chow, kurma, and salt prunes), and immediately head to a shop for the best back and shark around ... next, we make our way to the beach itself, where we run into Caramae and the kids (they´ve been there already for a while, but they are just about to leave), as well as La Toya and her family
- we set up camp next to La Toya, and then we head for the water ... here the waves are plentiful and perfect for bodysurfing ... we spend most of the day in the water ... well, Isaac, Zoe and I do ... we have to coax Lana and Kaye to come in to play with the waves ... Kaye doesn´t last very long, Lana sticks it out a bit longer before heading in
- eventually, everyone is ready to call it quits ... we head back towards towards town, but stop off in St. James for dinner (i.e. street roti) and dessert (i.e. homemade ice cream)
- after food, we all head back to Caramae´s place to shower and change ... then we all pack back into Lana´s car again, this time to "take Kaye home to San Fernando" ... which simply translates to all of us going out for drinks in San Fernando!
- we start off at a place called Sweet Lime, but the atmosphere is lacking, so we wind up once again at T.G.I. Friday´s ... a couple of drinks later, it´s getting pretty late, and we´re all pretty exhausted from the long day ... so we drop Kaye off at her home, and head back to Curepe ... this time, Lana vetoes the couch downstairs, and instead shares a bed with Zoe
- next day is our last in Trinidad (sad)
- in the morning, Lana takes me to a doctor that she knows who works Sundays (Lana has all the good medical connections) ... my asthma has been getting worse as the trip has gone on, and it´s at a point that Lana describes as "out of control"
- the doctor sees me right away, and without any fuss, gives me a free one month sample of a long-acting asthma prevention inhaler ... he also gives me a prescription to buy additional months at a discount ... but there´s no need, because Lana then calls a coworker friend who happens to have a couple more samples on him ... so we arrange to meet, and I´m suddenly asthma free for at least the next three months!
- we head back to the house, pick up Zoe and Isaac, and head out to a couple of shopping areas, looking for a bookstore with a guide to Portuguese
- we don´t have any luck, but we do find ourselves once again suspiciously close to Movietowne ... so back we go to Ruby Tuesday´s! Food and drinks later, we head back to Curepe, where Zak shows up with his wife, Corinne
- we all hang out for a bit, trying to make it through Lana´s pirated copy of Forgetting Sarah Marshall (we´ve forced her to try to watch it after all the quotations we´ve been regurgitating) ... then final goodbyes to Zak, as he takes off with his wife and daughters
- most people head to bed, opting for an earlyish night, knowing that tomorrow starts at 4am ... I opt for the all-nighter alternative of blogging and not sleeping ... Zoe is somewhere in between, staying up late, going to bed for a little while, and getting back up again
- 4 am comes, and it´s time to get ready to head out ... Caramae wakes up to see us off ... big hugs goodbye to her and Zoe, and the Isaac and I pack our bags into Lana´s car, and we head off towards the airport
- a short drive later, Lana walks us to the departure gate, and it´s more big hugs goodbye ... she then leaves us and heads straight to an early morning work meeting
- Trinidad and Tobago have been amazing to us, and it´s tough to go ... but it´s also time to move on and start travelling again ... next stop, Guyana
- EoW

Monday, July 20, 2009

WEEK 15

Santa Marta, Colombia
- because the bus ride to Santa Marta is about 18 hours, we were able to enjoy a last morning in Bogota ... after some internet and some food, we packed up and checked out of Fatima's, and took a taxi to the bus terminal
- we lucked out on getting a bus that was just about to leave, so we didn't have to spend much time at the terminal
- the bus had the a/c cranked at maximum, but this time we were prepared ... I was hidden under my sleeping bag liner for pretty much the entire trip
- most of the 18 hour ride was fairly uneventful ... a couple of bad movies, and a lot of sleeping ... we stopped for dinner at some bus-stop diner deal ... but the highlight had to be this incredible lightning show we got for much of the night ... non-stop lightning all around us, almost constant enough to be able to read from the light ... and it was all silent (no thunder) ... I'd read about this phenomenon occurring in Maracaibo (Venezuela), but we were lucky to witness it on the way to Santa Marta (because we never did see it in Maracaibo)
- the next morning, we're sore and stiff from so many hours on the bus, but the sun in shining, the scenery is once again tropical, and the a/c suddenly seems necessary
- we get off at the Santa Marta bus terminal and avoid the taxis by catching a shuttle bus into town
- the town is pretty big really, and quite a lot of it is run down ... not exactly appealing ... especially around the area we get dropped off ... there are buildings in shambles and streets that look like they are under permanent construction ... not the best first impression
- we walk to the area where the hotels are (i.e. towards the ocean and the beach), and pretty much all the hostels we find are pretty dumpy ... and some of them are still very expensive ... so we settle on one recommended to us ... it isn't horrible, but it isn't great ... so-so beds and bathroom, but the bigger problem is we only have one stationary fan and the room is unbearably warm (at all times)
- worse still, right outside our hostel, the street is ... well it smells like it gets used as a toilet pretty often!!
- so ick eww, we're wondering why everyone raves about how great Santa Marta is, because we're just not seeing it
- we head towards the ocean, and things suddenly get better ... the town has definitely invested all their tourism dollars into the waterfront area ... a very nice long boardwalk and a nice beach ... decent sand, decent water ... lots of people ... and on the other side of the street, many nice bars and restaurants ... okay, maybe Santa Marta won't be so horrible after all
- we hit a restaurant and get huge and delicious fruit juice drinks (oh how we've missed the jugo naturelles!) ... then we walked around a bit more, getting a lay of the land (and looking for better accomadations - which we never found)
- the rest of the afternoon was spent at the beach ... the warmth of the sun, coupled with the sand and water ... it really made all the bad go away
- after the beach, we headed back to the hotel and chilled out for a couple of hours ... then we got ready to head out for the evening
- back to the waterfront, the atmosphere had changed considerably ... instead of all the people being on the boardwalk and on the beach (and all in bathing suits), the people had now all migrated to the other side of the street, and many were dressed up for a night on the town ... the bars and restaurants had transformed from empty to full, music was blaring, and street vendors were now occupying almost every street corner
- after walking the length of the waterfront, we found a little shop with a big patio full of people drinking and having a good time ... so we popped inside to check their prices on rum
- turns out that not only is a bottle of rum very cheap, but for just a couple dollars more, we can sit and drink the bottle on their patio ... meaning they will bring us ice and limes whenever we need, we just need to buy the Cokes to mix
- the deal was a no brainer, and next thing we know, we're enjoying a seemingly endless supply of rum and cokes on the patio ... the breeze is lovely, the music is good, the atmosphere is great ... and somewhere in all that, the bottle became empty!! ... oops
- we staggered happily back to our hotel (Santa Marta seems to be yet another place in Colombia that isn't as unsafe as some people would have you believe), and we crashed for the night
- next day, we figured we might go to a nearby town with a potentially better beach ... but by the time we actually got up and going, it was too late to do anything other than hit the local beach again ... but that was fine, the weather was perfect, the beach was somehow better than the day before (read many more beautiful women in bikinis) ... we wound up having a perfectly enjoyable day
- back to the waterfront that evening, we found a restaurant that had very good pasta for a fair price (they also had a big screen set up on their patio, and they were playing video clips from the 90's - fantastic stuff)
- we took our time enjoying the meal and the music and the atmosphere (until eventually the video and music changed to Donna Summer live in concert) ... and on that note we took off and headed off
- we walked around town a few blocks in, where there are several night clubs ... just people watching and checking out the nightlife setup ... eventually, we'd done the tour and headed back towards the waterfront ... completely by chance, we wound up in front of the bar with the full-service bottle of rum deal!
- it seemed like fate, so we obviously found ourselves sitting on the patio and enjoying another bottle of rum
- we met some locals, and they wound up taking us to a nearby club ... only it was empty and lame ... so shortly after, we headed home and called it a night
- next day was a bit of deja vu in that we once again got going too late to go to any other beach other than the local one ... we kinda knew that was going to happen though ... the scenery wasn't as great as the day before, but we still had a really good "last day" of beach (we had to leave for Venezuela the following day)
- we had to take it easy in the evening, because we had to get up somewhat early for the bus to Venezuela the next morning, so we returned to restaurant with good food, and then headed back to the hotel for an early evening
- so it turns out, the only reason we were able to sleep in our hotel room the past two nights was that we were too intoxicated to notice the heat!! Being sober on our last night was completely miserable, because it was seriously impossible to get comfortable ... it took hours to fall asleep, and even that was only for a couple of hours (at most)
- we got up early, feeling completely unrested ... we hopped in a taxi and headed for the bus terminal ... lucky us - another full day of travel to look forward to ... Venezuela, here we come!

Get-me-the-hell-out-of: Venezuela
- we grab a big bus from Santa Marta to the Colombian border town of Maicao ... unfortunately, it's an older bus, and the seats aren't very comfortable ... the a/c works at least
- about 4 hours later, we get dropped off in Maicao, but not at the bus terminal (as we had hoped) ... the guys on the bus kept telling us this was where to get off for Venezuela ... then they took off
- we'd read that Maicao was not very safe and we should NOT leave the bus terminal (no problem, you have to actually make it ot the terminal to leave it!)
- immediately, we have a bunch of guys all yelling at us at once, in Spanish ... one guy wants to exchange money, another two are saying come this way or that to go to Venezuela (usually, they are pointing to older broken down cars that do not look like anything we should be entering) ... after we ask around a bit, we're told things like there is no bus terminal, or it has closed
- everything feels beyond sketch, but our options are fairly limited ... passers by keep telling us we should deal with one of the guys who is hounding us, so we wind up talking to him directly
- he tells us the price to get all the way to Maracaibo (payable upfront), and he also exchanges our last Colombian pesos into Venezuelan bolivars ... I had researched the exchange rates in Venezuela a bit (enough to know there is a "black" (they call it parallel) market that gives a much better rate than the official one) ... and I could tell he was giving us a fairly decent rate
- we wind up paying upfront (after trying to negociate to pay on arrival in Maracaibo - that did not work), and next thing we know, we're climbing up the back (it's covered) of an old pick-up truck ... avoiding a bicycle and a tire, as well as another passenger ... and sitting on a wooden bench
- we drive for less than five minutes, and wouldn't you know it, we pull into the BUS TERMINAL!!
- now we're wondering if we got ripped off and we're going to get dumped off ... instead, the other guy, bicycle and tire all get removed from the truck ... and they get replaced by ELEVEN more people!! (and another two in the front)
- crowded doesn't even begin to explain the situation ... there is absolutely no movement possible ... can't cross your legs, can't stretch out your feet ... just locked in position
- and so we depart ... at least we figure out that we're all going to Maracaibo, and everyone else paid the same price
- this leg of the trip was "interesting" to say the least ... crossing the border was a breeze really ... we got out, lined up, got exit stamps, walked over to another line, and got entry stamps for Venezuela ... little did we know we would get stopped TEN more times by officials asking to see our identification ... we were even asked by the truck driver's assistant (who spent a lot of the ride up on top of the truck, with the bags) for some BRIBE money ... i.e. that's they system they use to hopefully avoid bag inspection ... we wound up having our bags inspected only one time, but this required untying them from above the truck, taking them to a scan machine, and they loading them up again
- about 6 hours later ... with my tailbone basically shattered, and the rest of my body pretty much in a full cramp from not moving for so long ... we finally reached Maracaibo ... already completely dark, but lacking any of the promised silent lightning show
- we get to the bus terminal, and almost everyone on the bus heads off to find night buses to Caracas ... our original plan was to overnight in Maracaibo, but the only "real" attraction was this weather phenomenon we weren't seeing (and we'd already seen on the bus to Santa Marta)
- Isaac threw out the idea of just continuing to Caracas, and it seemed to make a lot of sense ... so we exchanged a bit of money with someone in a secluded area of the terminal (for slightly higher than the ticket agents were offering), bought our tickets, grabbed a quick bite to eat ... and just like that, we were back on a bus, headed to Caracas
- thankfully, this bus was very comfortable, and we were able to get some decent sleep ... that was only interrupted three times for more official identification checks!
- morning arrives, and we feel somewhat rested, and less in pain than we were when we got off the truck in Maracaibo
- Caracas is a huge city ... it took us quite a while to get to the west bus terminal after we entered the city ... there, we took a fairly expensive taxi to the Las Mercedes area, where we hoped to find an affordable hotel in a safer part of town (the safest part of town supposedly being neighbouring Altamira, but all the hotels listed in that area were way out of our price range)
- we actually got the taxi to drop us off by an internet cafe (according to the Lonely Planet), so we could hopefully research which hotel to go to ... but the building was closed (it was 9am and it didn't open until 11am) ... so we instead walked around, trying to find a place to eat
- it was a Sunday, and pretty much everything seemed closed ... we eventually found a bakery that was open, and we got a little bite to eat ... and then we just hung out in their eating area until the internet place opened
- so we walk back to the internet place, and it turns out it's an electronics store, with a couple computers set up for the internet upstairs ... except when we go there, we're informed the connection is down, so there is no internet available!!
- well that didn't work out ... but there was one hotel listed in the Lonely Planet that we could easily walk to (Isaac wasn't too keen on the place, because it was listed as a "love motel" ... meaning it is frequented by hookers, and you can pay by the hour)
- we get there, and the place is shady through and through ... the room stinks of smoke ... and the price is way higher than was listed in the book (which was already a price more than we were hoping to pay)
- so suddenly Las Mercedes wasn't looking like it would work for us ... we instead looked up Sabana Grande in the book ... there was a string of hotels that didn't look too far away, so we decided to hike the 30 or so minutes to get there (we were already hot and sweaty from the heat and the backpacks, so it really didn't matter at this point)
- MISTAKE ... walking any great distance in Caracas ... especially on a Sunday ... especially with backpacks on ... we had huge targets on our backs
- we actually got to about 5 minutes short of the hotel before it happened ... two cops on a motorcycle were cruising down the road, saw us, and drove onto the sidewalk to stop us
- we'd been asked for passports so many times on the trip from Colombia that we didn't think anything fishy was going on at first ... we just reached for our passports and handed them to these "metro police" (who quite possibly aren't real police, but they do carry guns - enough said)
- it all went south when they demanded to look through our bags ... one of them did the classic move of distracting both of us at the same time, while the other went through the bags
- I caught on after only a minute, but it was a minute too late ... the very first bag he went through, the very first pocket he checked was the one where I had some U.S. cash loosely exposed ... I grabbed the bag, checked for the cash, and my heart sank when I knew it was gone
- I asked him where my money was, to which they both immediately replied "what money" ... not good ... worse still, there was a lot more U.S. cash hidden throughout our bags, and they were still searching (you HAVE to sneak in U.S. cash to exchange on the parallel market, otherwise, everthing costs about three times more than it ever should)
- we became a lot more protective of our things, but there really wasn't much we could do ... they searched, but not too thoroughly (possibly because they'd already found some cash) ... eventually, they just stopped, hopped on their bike, and took off without a word ... leaving us to pack up our bags and get off the streets as soon as humanly possible
- we quicked the pace, and got to the hotel in just a few short minutes (head swimming in the clouds of just having been basically mugged by police figures)
- we check in to a place that is supposedly a love motel on the first floor and a backpacker hotel on the second ... it doesn't have the same seedy vibe as the last place we saw, and the price is much more affordable
- in the room, we do the full inspection to see what damage was really done ... turns out, ALL they got was the $65 USD I had in that front pocket ... considering we were carrying hundreds more, we definitely lucked out ... a sixty-five dollar lesson learned
- we stayed in for the rest of the day, venturing out all of one block to get dinner (a cheap little sandwich place) ... both the hotel manager and the waiter at the restaurant went out of their way to tell us, "if you go out, take little money with you, and always carry your passport" ... actually, in all fairness, most of the locals in Caracas were very nice, and almost all of them apologized to us for how unsafe and unkind to tourists the city was ... they basically blamed the government (while trying not to say Hugo Chavez too loudly)
- the hotel had a balcony patio on the second floor, and they sold cheap beers ... so we spent the rest of the evening drowning our sorrows and figuring out how to survive the rest of our time in Caracas and Venezuela
- next day, we headed out with the primary mission of finding a good place to exchange the rest of our US money (because if we didn't get a good rate, we didn't have enough on us to get us out of the country)
- Isaac put all our money under the sole-inserts of his shoes (even if a mugger thought to look there, the smell would have warded him off)!
- we started off looking for a nearby travel agency that was listed in the Lonely Planet (we were told they sometimes exchange money at a decent rate) ... it only took us about an hour of searching and retracing our steps and asking people before we found the building we were looking for ... the guy at the agency wasn't able to convert money for us, but he was very friendly and helpful ... he helped us figure out where and when to go to catch a bus to Guiria, and he suggested we try a big hotel to change money
- on our way to the hotel, we passed another travel agency ... we popped in and asked if they'd exchange money for us, and they said no, but there was a place just a couple blocks away
- we headed there thinking it might just be one of the cambios that uses the official useless rate ... but instead, we found two guys behind bulletproof glass ... they offered a rate a bit higher than we were even hoping for ... instantly making us wonder if we were about to get scammed
- we take so long to decide, they put us in a private room, with a side window to their operation ... so Isaac reaches into one of his shoes, and we give the guys a bit of money, hoping that we actually get some local currency in return
- they give us what they promised, and we count the Bolivars and then hold them up to the light to see the holograms, and then whatever other "authentic" check we could think of (keeping in mind we're clueless about counterfeit money)
- as far as we could tell, the money was real ... so we exchanged what we had calculated to be approximately what we needed to get out of the country, with a big extra for wiggle room
- we left we a lot of Bolivars in Isaac's shoe ... feeling pretty elated, especially when we made our first purchase (we went to an internet cafe) and the money was accepted as authentic!
- we decided to celebrate our success ... we found a bakery with affordable cheese and bread, and then we hit a liquor shop for boxed wine ... and we wound up having what felt like a gourmet dinner on the hotel's balcony patio
- after dinner, we just relaxed at the balcony for a while, and wound up going to bed feeling pretty good ... Venezuela had treated us much better this day
- next day, we took our time heading out ... we knew the bus wasn't leaving until the evening
- so we checked out of our hotel, and left our bags at reception ... then we headed out to the internet for some blogging and photo uploading and things of that nature
- after that, we grabbed a decent meal at a middle eastern restaurant, and then grabbed our bags and flagged down a taxi to take us to the bus
- the eastern bus terminal is pretty far out of the way from downtown Caracas ... as such, the ride was pretty long (especially when it started to rain), and pretty spendy
- the taxi driver was cool though, and he got us to the terminal without much fuss (although he did ask us to pay him a bit more because the rain was making the trip take longer ... we agreed only because we liked him and figured it'd count as a tip)
- at the bus terminal, we found out where to go to get tickets for the overnight bus to Guiria ... we bought them without any difficulty, but the bus wasn't leaving for another three or so hours ... meaning we had plenty of time to do a whole bunch of nothing
- the rain turned into a torrential downpour, which provided entertainment for a few minutes, as the sound of the water hammering the metal roof of the terminal was impressively loud
- we spent the rest of the time laying on a row of chairs and having a competition of who could find the shop with the cheapest snacks
- eventually the time came to board the bus, and we were on our way ... the bus was simple and comfortable enough, but not nearly as nice as the last one we were on
- one thing we noticed was that moving east away from Caracas, we were not stopped by anyone demanding to see our passports
- about five or so hours into the journey, we arrived at Puerto la Cruz (the stopping point for catching a boat to Isla Margarita), where at least half of the bus load got off
- once the sun started to come up ... the rest of the trip was warm (the a/c on the bus was only so-so), tropical (scenery) and quiet (hardly anyone left on the bus)
- another 4 to 5 hours after Puerto la Cruz, the bus stopped and we were apparently in Guiria ... a small town, somewhat rundown ... and already sunny and hot, even though it was still crazy early in the morning
- the Lonely Planet doesn't provide a map of Guiria, so we were pretty lost ... a cabbie came up to us and we agreed to pay him for a ride to the boat ticketing office ... turns out the office was only one block away!!! The driver felt no remorse for scamming us, but at least we didn't pay him very much
- worse still, the office was closed ... turns out this Wednesday is a holiday in Venezuela, so now we're freaking out a bit, wondering if the ferry is even running
- turns out we're just too early and the office winds up opening about half an hour later ... phew!!
- we go to buy our tickets and the women starts quoting a price way higher than we were expecting ... two Colombian girls are waiting in line, and one of them speaks some English, so she steps up to help explain the situation
- turns out that the woman is telling us we have to be return tickets (by law), because we don't have proof of leaving Trinidad ... we were trying to explain to her that we were going to fly to Guyana, but it wasn't working ... we explained this to the Colombian girl, she rattled off some Spanish to the ticket agent, and just like that we were given the price of a one-way fare!
- much to our chagrin, the one-way fare was slightly more than all of our remaining Bolivars ... so we had to exchange a bit more U.S. money (at a pretty bad parallel market rate) ... still, the important thing is that we had our tickets, the ferry was definitely running, and we were getting the hell out of Venezuela!!
- once we had our tickets, we helped the Colombian girls out with filling in their Trindad and Tobago customs declaration forms (all in English) ... I can't remember their names (for reasons to be explained shortly), but I think the one who spoke a bit of English was Vanessa, and the other one was Maria (or so her passport said)
- we spent the rest of the morning at a nearby dive hotel ... the girls had a room there, and they helped us negociate a cheap "day rate" for another room, where we could shower and relax for the several hours we had before the ferry arrived
- we left the hotel feeling a bit refreshed (the intense heat of the day wasn't helping much) ... and then the four of us caught a truck-taxi to the ferry (there seem to be two types of taxi in Guiria ... either a truck where you sit in the back, or an old trans-am style muscle car ... usually with oversized wheels and blasting crazy loud music ... some in much better shape than others)
- we get to the ferry, and there are a bunch of people waiting on the side of the road (there is no office or building of any kind, just the boat, a small tented area with immigration officials and a couple of tables and chairs, and that's it)
- we find a spot on some roads by the side of the road, and wait for when the ferry is ready to board
- while we're waiting, 'Vanessa' asks us if we can help them with the customs officials ... I tell her no problem, I'd be happy to help her with the English ... but that's not what she wants ... she asks us if we could pretend to be their boyfriends!! RED FLAG, RED FLAG!! We politely say no, we can't do that (especially since we're having our own stress due to the fact that we don't technically have any proof of leaving Trinidad ... not that we would have pretended to be their boyfriends anyway)
- turns out Maria met a Trinidadian online, and she's going to Trinidad to meet him for the first time ... yet somehow she doesn't speak English and he doesn't speak Spanish (??), so Vanessa is going with her to act as translator (sketch!) ... Vanessa had also been in Trinidad the year before, to study (apparently illegally on a visitor's visa)
- so we get in line for immigration (leaving Venezuela) ... Isaac and I get through, and our bags get on the boat ... so far so good ... a few minutes later, the girls also get on the boat
- next, there is Trinidad and Tobago customs check on the boat ... again, Isaac and I get through without an issue ... the girls however have issues ... I get called over to help translate for Vanessa ... it seems they have an issue with how long she spent in Trinidad the last time (too long) ... there is also an issue with Maria's passport (quite possibly fake)
- the long and short of it is this ... eventually the girls go into another room, and Isaac and I basically disappear, i.e. disassociate ourselves from them in every and any way possible! ... anything to avoid further questioning in our direction (i.e. please don't ask to see our proof of departure)
- eventually, the boat starts moving away from land ... Isaac and I are still aboard, so we're happy ... it doesn't take long to discover the girls are NOT ... they were nice and everything, but better them than us - so while we felt sorry for their situation, we were mostly just elated to be off Venezuelan soil
- we were only in Venezuala for five days and four nights, the majority of the time we were travelling on buses, and yet our time there was some of the most stressful and memorable of the entire trip ... in hindsight, the experiences there were worth having ... but overall, the best part of Venezuela was seeing it disappear as the ferry sailed towards Trinidad and Tobago
- EoW

Saturday, July 18, 2009

In Dutch Guyana and on Facebook

I thought I would throw a post out there saying that David and I are in Dutch Guyana / Suriname. It has been a good time so far. Hot weather, hot food.

And, as anyone who checks this blog will know, I have been very bad about posting photos here. I will continue to try and upload and update when possible, in the mean time, check David and I out on facebook. I am much more active there than on this site. You can find me by searching for "Isaac Voth" (there are not alot of us out there, so I will be close to the top).

In the mean time, a picture of me and many many barrels of rum.







Sunday, July 12, 2009

WEEK 14

Medellin, Colombia
- I leave Cartagena in the evening ... a 45 minute ride to the bus terminal is nothing compared to the 14 hour bus ride to Medellin! The worst part is that the a/c is beyond extreme, and I didn't think ahead enough to even be wearing long pants!! At least the seats are comfortable, and the bus is fairly empty. I'm able to sleep (shivering) most of the way, so the ride passes without too much trauma (and from that point on, I learned to always keep my silk sleeping bag in my carry on!)
- I arrive in Medellin early in the morning (the day before the soccer match) ... I've researched enough to know that I've arrived in the north bus terminal, which is right on a metro line ... so instead of bothering with finding a taxi, I jump on a very nice, very efficient and very cheap metro-train!
- travelling through the city, it doesn't take long to notice we are surrounded by mountains, and building after building is made of red clay bricks ... the temperature is also noticeably cooler than Cartagena ... quite pleasant really
- I've emailed a hostel ahead of time, but I haven't had a chance to check my email to see if they were able to book a room for me ... but I head to that area anyway, because that seems to be the spot for backpackers, and there should be a couple of options within walking distance
- so after about 10 stops, I hop off the metro, and walk for about 5 minutes ... and without much difficulty, I find the Black Sheep Hostel ... I try to check in, and I'm told that they received my email, BUT they are full up (at this moment in time), BUT if I can come back around 2pm, they might have a bed available (depends on who does/doesn't check out) ... it's about 10am, so I opt for looking elsewhere in the meantime
- about 2 blocks away, I find the Pit Stop Hostel ... they too inform me they are full (uh oh) ... but then after some miscommunication, the guy winds up telling me "all" he has left is a perfectly affordable private room!! Hello, check me in! Turns out the room is pretty fantastic, and not horrendously expensive - score
- next order of business is to get my hands on tickets for everyone for the football match ... I head back on the metro, and a few stops later, I've transferred lines and have been dropped off right in front of the stadium ... it "only" seats 45,000 or so, making it fairly small ... but it seems fairly impressive from the outside
- I walk all the way around the stadium, and nothing seems open ... not a good sign ... I eventually find out the "cheap seats" (rush seating, north and south ends of the field, behind the goals) are all sold out ... no one was really keen on paying the steep hike in price for the premium seats, plus all the die hard locals are supposed to be in the cheap seats, so we wanted to be with them
- when I make it around to the far side of the stadium, I'm quickly approached by a scalper ... after a wee bit of haggling, I buy five tickets in the south section for $17.50 a ticket (everyone else we met who bought tickets paid the same price, if not more ... so I think we did well)
- I head back towards the hostel with tickets in hand ... and I explore the area a bit ... the Exito is a huge grocery store not far away, there are also a bunch of small local food shops a couple blocks away (selling burgers, hot dogs, pizza, fried chicken, and Mexican food), and there is also a mall that is within walking distance
- after checking out the mall, it occurs to me that it's almost time for the NBA Finals match (I can't remember which game, but Orlando still had a chance at the time), so I wander around until I come across a 3rd story sports bar
- the place winds up being a fairly fancy Italian restaurant + bar, but that suits me fine ... I get some grub and have the bar mostly to myself for the entire game (which was very entertaining until the wrong team won)
- the restaurant closed as soon as the game was over, and I headed outside in the middle of the night, in the rain, with only a smidge of a clue as to how best to get back to the hostel ... fortunately, the smidge of a clue was all I needed ... I lucked out on picking the perfect side street to cut back (and avoid the mall), and I wound up at the hostel in no time ... I headed straight for my room and called it a night
- next morning, I checked email and learned that Joe and Laura had arrived and were staying at the Black Sheep (they had successfully made reservations) ... Isaac and Kate also had emailed to say they were flying to Medellin from Cartagena (having already returned to Cartagena from Playa Blanca earlier that same morning) ... and they were hoping to be there in time to meet us before we headed to the match
- I checked out of the Pit Stop and headed back to the Black Sheep, where I was able to get a bunk bed in a dorm room (and I attempted to reserve two more beds in the same room for Isaac and Kate)
- it didn't take long for me to find Joe and Laura, so we had a nice little reunion and hung out and caught up in the open sitting area of the hostel ... Joe was wearing his authentic Colombia team football jersey, so he was getting lots of compliments from anyone who walked by ... a bunch of the other tourists had cheaper and lesser knock-off jerseys, and it seemed that EVERYone was going to the game
- before long, it became time for us to head to the stadium, but there was still no sign of Isaac and Kate ... I wound up leaving their tickets at the front desk, no idea if they were going to arrive in time
- we hop back on the metro, but this time it's packed ... the vast majority of the passengers wearing Colombian team colours ... we get to the stadium, and there are people everywhere ... it's a fun kind of madness that gets us excited to watch the game
- Laura and I decide to hop on the band wagon, and we each buy knock-off Colombian team jerseys ... now we blend in with the masses ... the line-up to get into the stadium is beyond ridiculously long (all the way back to the metro almost), but it winds up moving fairly quickly
- we pass through two security lines, and the scalped tickets pass the authenticity test, and just like that, we're in the stadium! Not too many people have chosen where they are going to sit yet, meaning we are able to pick what we feel is an ideal location (left of the goal, but not too far off centre)
- the "seats" are simply concrete, so not comfortable at all (not that it really matters, as we seem to be in a section that stands the entire time the game is on) ... the sun is out, but not painfully hot (and evening is approaching) ... and there is a huge buzz of anticipation as the stadium slowly fills up (I wound have to assume Medellin doesn't get many World Cup qualifiers in general)
- about an hour and a half after we've entered the stadium, the teams are on the field, the national anthems have been played, and the match is about ready to begin ... the north and south ends of the field are packed to the gills, and it's non-stop standing, hopping, screaming, cheering, and singing chant after chant
- no sign of Isaac and Kate, but no real chance of spotting them even if there are at the game ... our section is way too crowded ... suddenly, what looks like tape rolls start flying through the air ... people are supplying the fans with ready-to-throw streamers ... just before the game starts, streamers fly all over the place, many of them getting on to the playing field (and they don't even bother to clean the field before play!)
- the game starts, and we try to learn some of the chants we keep hearing over and over ... our view is also pretty spetacular, as not only do we have a decent view of the game (especially when it comes to our end of the field), but we also have a great view of a mountain behind the stadium, nicely lit up by all the houses on it
- Colombia dominates Peru right from the beginning ... the have scoring chance after scoring chance ... they should have had at least 4 goals ... but they keep missing! ... luckily, before the end of the first half, one of their players finally puts the ball in the net (quite possibly by accident, they way the seem incapable of scoring in general) ... and the crowd goes CRAZY ... the post goal celebration was definitely the highlight of the match
- second half was more of the same ... many chances, no goals ... but the important thing is that Colombia gets the win (1-0), and therefore stays alive (barely) in the World Cup qualification quest ... by the end of the match, the head hurts, the ears are ringing, the back aches, there is a feeling of exhaustion ... and overall, the sentiment is simply, "yeah, that was a pretty awesome experience"
- we exit the stadium and head to the big fountain en route to the metro (this was the landmark I noticed yesterday when buying tickets that I subsequently told Isaac and Kate to meet us at after the game, assuming they were able to make it)
- not five minutes later, Isaac and Kate show up ... turns out they missed their boat from Playa Blanca (because the boat left early!) ... wound up taking some crazy motorcycle taxis back to Cartagena ... headed to the airport but couldn't get an early flight, so landed in Medellin after the rest of us had already headed to the stadium ... then had a half hour (at least) cab ride towards the Black Sheep ... then had to find the hostel (cabbie couldn't find it, had to ask another cabbie ... twice ... FINALLY got there) ... then the girl at the front desk wasn't the same person I had talked to, so she didn't know about the reservation and told them the hostel was full(!!!!) ... they were at least able to pick up the tickets I had left them ... then they tried the Pit Stop and were able to get one bunk bed in a dorm ... and a common room couch to sleep on (!!!!!!!) ... then they hopped the metro to the stadium, and magically got there BEFORE THE GAME STARTED ... no idea how the pulled that off, but kudos for last minute genius of it all (not the last time this "genius" would come to fruition in Medellin)
- so more reuniting, and everyone had a great time ... we wound up walking around the area for a bit (streets and bars and restaurants were all packed with people celebrating) ... a few blocks away, we finally found a restaurant that had a table big enough for our group ... so we had dinner and drinks to cap off the experience ... then we headed back to our respective hostels and called it a night (it was quite annoying to see three empty beds in my dorm room)
- next day was a bit of a fight with the rain, but we managed to make the most of it ... Joe and Laura went to some park where everyone walks around without any shoes on; while Isaac, Kate and I made the most of the metro experience by riding a cable car (at the end of the line that passes the stadium) ... the ride was long and scenic, and very impressive ... especially on the way back, when we were treated to a pretty intense lightning show that was only a couple of miles away ... what made it even better is that we only had to pay once for the metro (like $1.25), and that got us from the hostel to the cable car (and on the cable car) and all the way back to the hostel
- in the evening, we reconnected with Joe and Laura (Isaac and Kate decided to stay at the Pit Stop, having upgraded to a private room for two), and had a few drinks while trying to decide what to do for the evening ... eventually, Kate and Isaac headed back to their hostel, while I had a couple more drinks with Joe and Laura (they had decided not to go out with us, so this was our last time together before heading in different directions the next day)
- after saying goodbye to team Portsmouth, I headed to the Pit Stop to find Isaac and Kate in the middle of a big party at the hostel's bar ... beer, rum, and aguardiente (aka satan's alcohol choice) were readily available ... a couple drinks later, we'd formed a party-posse, and we headed out to the local bar/club area ... the Zona Rosa
- we window shopped from bar to bar until we all settled on a place where we could mainly sit, talk and drink ... flasks of rum and aguardiente showed up at our table in abundance ... it's almost a certainty that a local Colombian woman coaxed us into consuming the aguardiente, and (whoever she is) she is certainly the spawn of satan
- eventually the bar closed and we had to leave ... a big group of staggering and stumbling tourists, some of them (ok me) still carrying flasks and they swayed back towards the hostel ... nights like these, it's always best to just blame Kate and her insistence that we party like rock stars for the few short days she was with us
- we made it back to our respective hostels in one piece, and proceeded to sleep like babies, not at all concerned about the possibility of missing our 12:50pm flight to Bogota the following day
- next day, I get up and checked out of the Black Sheep by 11am ... Isaac and Kate said the cab ride to the airport is about thirty minutes, so time doesn't seem to be an issue as I head over to meet them at the Pit stop
- when I get there, they are headed out to the grocery store to get something to eat and drink ... I ask if we have time to do all that, and they insist there is plenty of time ... then the chaos begins
- first, the trip the grocery store took a bit longer than expected, meaning we have to leave pretty much as soon as we get back to the hostel ... but then it takes a few minutes for them to check out ... then we have to grab a cab ... then the cab asks us WHICH airport we're going to ... we aren't sure, so we ask around and no one else knows ... we wind up having to look it up on the internet (many minutes later) ... only to figure out that you have to go to the international airport for domestic flights (!?? ... makes you wonder what the other airport is for)
- so now we're finally on our way, and the quick math already tells us we'll be arriving at the airport with maybe 45 minutes to spare (if we're lucky)
- we are NOT lucky (at least we don't feel lucky yet) ... naturally, we're asking the cabbie over and over to please hurry because we're trying to not miss our flight ... the cabbie seems to think this means go slow, take time to check out the scenery, and basically make no effort to get us to the airport in time to make our flight
- it's quite possible that the cabbie took a different route to the airport ... either way, it's a long climb up a mountain (why would the international airport be not only way out of the city, but UP a MOUNTAIN???) ... half an hour quickly passes, and we haven't even seen a sign for an airport ... another 20 minutes pass, and we've at least seen an airport sign, but we don't seem to be close at all ... at this point, we start to panic
- when we finally sense we are getting close to the airport, it's about 12:35 (our flight is at 12:50) ... not good!!! ... we bust into the airport and rush for the counter ... the clock reads 12:45 ... our flight leaves in 5 minutes, and we're just now trying to check in
- and wouldn't you know it, they not only check us in, but they check our BAGS too!! We get rushed (i.e. we're all literally running at this point) to a special security check (likely for airline staff only), and we magically board the plane with the rest of the passengers ... this last minute genius thing may seem fun, but it really needs to stop!
- about an hour later, Kate, Isaac and I (and our bags!) arrive in Bogota

Bogota, Colombia
- Bogota has a much bigger "city" feel to it than Cartagena and Medellin ... it feels busier and more modern ... but more than anything, Bogota feels ... COLD ... it's odd how we're now the closest we've been to the equator on this trip, and we're the coldest we've been on this trip! ... the explanation is easy ... the elevation is huge
- the taxi system out of the airport is the best we've encountered so far ... you go to a counter and tell the person where you want to go ... she then prints up a ticket for you, stating the location and the fixed price ... you then give that to the cabbie, and he drives you there - no haggling necessary
- the only problem is that the cabbie once again can't find the hostel (a really bad recurring theme) ... after asking a couple of pedestrians, and after going the wrong way down a one-way street, we wind up at our selected destination - the Cranky Croc ... only problem is that when we knock on the door, they sadly inform us they are full (another really bad recurring theme) ... luckily, our second choice is only a block and a half a way (I suppose this is a really good recurring theme) ... so we head off and check in to the hostel called Fatima
- we get a dorm room, but there are only five beds (big, comfortable, and loaded with many warm blankets), and they are all unoccupied ... so we leave the two upper bunk beds vacant, and figure we have a semi-private room
- we had downstairs to Fatima's bar/restaurant, and wind up having a really tasty (and cheap) lunch ... better still, we meet Eleise ... an Aussie who is travelling with her friend Jordan, but has stopped in Bogota for a while ... she's our server, and she's friendly and after a bit of conversation (we're the only patrons in the bar at the time), she asks us if we have any plans for the night ... we've just arrived, so we haven't even put any thought into the evening ... so she winds up inviting us to go on a bus tour (Bogota Underground ... runs every Friday) ... about a week earlier, we had gone on a Chivas bus tour in Cartagena - it was fairly fun, but it was all very Spanish and catered more to locals than tourists (which wasn't necessarily a bad thing, we just didn't know what was being said most of the time ... the biggest issue was that the tour wasn't that long, and the stops weren't that great) ... this bus tour sounded like a lot more fun, and we didn't hesitate to confirm we'd go
- after our meal, we headed out for a walk ... it was sunny out, making the air merely "chilly" ... we headed towards the cable car tourist attraction, and rode up to the top of a nearby mountain (similar to Medellin, Bogota is surrounded by mountains) ... this ride was much shorter, and quite a bit more expensive ... but we could get out at the top ... where there is a huge church and a few shops ... the view was pretty spectacular, and you could really get a feel for just how massive Bogota is
- then the sun started to set and "chilly" became "freezing" ... we got hot chocolate and headed back down to the bottom, and walked back to the hostel for a quick pre-partying nap
- a couple of hours later, we were ready to (yet again) party until we drop ... we headed back to the Cranky Croc, as that was the pick-up spot for the bus
- we wound up sitting with the organisers of the tour, and a few drinks were had while we waited for everyone to show up ... we were also taken to a shop about a block away where they sell delicious and cheap homemade empanadas
- by the time everyone boarded the bus, we had made several new friends, and everyone was in a happy mood and ready to party
- the bus blasted good dance music from beginning to end, and it only took about 10 minutes before the first round of tequila shots were passed out to everyone ... a second round of shots later, and we'd passed through La Candeleria (the around of town we were staying), and drive halfway up a mountain
- we pulled over for our first stop ... a popular lookup point, full of buses and cars and shops and people ... having already seen the city from up high earlier in the day, I wasn't too keen on a repeat ... but the scenery was fairly impressive anew, with all the night-time lights ... also, it didn't hurt that at this stop, the vodka and orange juice was passed around to everyone
- back on the bus, it was time for another tequila shot before stopping off at a bar/restaurant ... the decor was cool, but it was fairly small and cramped, and the group was forced to break off into many smaller groups
- a couple of drinks later, we were back on the bus ... another shot of tequila later, and it seemed like most of us were now standing and dancing as we drove through town ... out last stop was a dance club ... the place was packed, but it easily absorbed our large group (we were between 30 and 40 people)
- more drinks, and lots of dancing later, it was time to round up everyone to head back to the Cranky Croc ... turns out this is the hostel headquarters for hanging out and meeting people (tourists and locals) ... so while most of the bus crew headed to bed, a few of us (including team party-until-you-lose-brain-cells, i.e. Kate, Isaac and myself) stayed and met new people
- no idea what time we got back from the bus tour, but I know that a big box of aguardiente appeared (pretty sure Isaac bought it, but I'm not sure what devil woman coerced him into doing so), and I know that by the time I got back to Fatima's, Isaac and Kate had been sleeping for about an hour, and the sun was just coming up
- next day is Kate's last, so we reluctantly get out of bed to try to make the most of it ... we hit Fatima's bar again for food ... at first the place is closed ... then Eleise shows up LATE ... apparently the bus tour got the better of her ... and then (much to our chagrin), we learn that the cook is out sick ... so we wind up going to a nearby French bistro for tasty yet less satisfying sandwiches
- after eating, we make an attempt at the Lonely Planet's recommended walking tour ... we tour an art museum, skip another museum, avoid pigeons and feel sorry for the saddle and shoe wearing llamas in the central park area, check out prices at several emerald shops, peruse a street market (actually bought a couple of belts, so that was very exciting), and then dropped Kate off at the museum of gold, while Isaac and I walked around and did anything but go in that museum. An hour later, we picked Kate up at the museum, and walked her to the area we'd found with really cheap pirated dvd's, where she picked out a few movies to take home with her
- we headed back to the hostel, and changed to go out for dinner ... after walking around our area for quite a while (and snacking on a homemade empanada), we settled on a swanky and cozy Italian restaurant ... the food was excellent, and the fruit juice was the best we'd had since Cartagena
- on the way back to the hostel from the Italian restaurant, we discovered a bar that had microbrew beer ... so we popped in to see if it was any good ... we wound up getting a 3 litre beer "flute" or "bong" or whatever you want to call it ... basically a big cylinder of beer at your table, with a do-it-yourself pour-spout at the bottom ... the beer wound up being pretty tasty, but the novelty of the beer-bong was the highlight
- after all the food and beer, everyone was feeling pretty sluggish ... team party-as-hard-as-humanly-possible-while-Kate-is-here threw in the white towel on the very last night ... we headed back to the hostel, and went to bed
- now maybe it was Kate's mission to party until your brain breaks, or maybe it was just the cute Colombian girls I had met at the Cranky Croc the night before, but I found myself unable to sleep ... so I wound up heading back out and heading to the Cranky Croc
- quite a few familiar faces were there (including the Colombian girls - Lisette, Johanna and "ShowMe"), and before I could even blink, I've been hugged and a bracelet has been attached to my wrist, thus guaranteeing my free entry to some dance club in Bogota's Zona Rosa
- shortly after that, two cabs full of people (our little cab had 7 people in it) took us all to the Zona Rosa, where it's just club after club after club, and people everywhere ... we headed to the club associated with our bracelets, and proceded to dance the night away to techno/house music
- eventually, the club closed, so we all had to leave ... naturally, we headed back to the Cranky Croc to continue partying (and once again run into other people - some new faces, some repeats from the previous night) ... Lisette had the know-how to play music in the common area of the hostel, so there was much dancing to go with the rest of the partying at the Cranky Croc ... eventually, the night started to fade into day, and I had to leave the party simply because Kate was heading to the airport in a few minutes, and I wanted to say goodbye
- I ran into Kate and Isaac at the front door of Fatima's ... Kate was amused to learn I'd been out partying all night ... team rockstar had not failed ... we flagged down a cab, hugs goodbye, Kate headed to the airport ... and Isaac and I went back to bed ... the sun was once again making an appearance, and I wondered how many Bogota sunrises I was destined to witness
- next day, I got up and going earlier than once might expect (i.e. before noon - I think) ... Isaac and I once again tried to go to Fatima's bar for food, but it would appear almost all of Bogota is closed on a Sunday ... we wound up walking through a different part of La Candeleria, on a mission to find the movie theatre ... in so doing, we also found some mediocre food and a decent internet cafe
- we wound up watching Transporter 3 ... which is many ways was a horrible movie, and yet I found it thoroughly entertaining (watching a movie was the perfect activity for us)
- it was evening by the time we got back from the movie ... we headed to the bar with the beer-bongs, but it was closed ... we had empanadas for dinner, and then we bought a bottle of rum and headed to the Cranky Crock ... a couple old faces, but mostly new faces ... we quickly made friends with Laura (a girl from England living in Bogota) and her Colombian friend Melissa, and their friend Josie (who seems like a white tourist whose first language was English, but turned out to actually be a cool guy from Colombia)
- hours of good conversation passed ... the bottle of rum disappeared, Josie bought another bottle, some people (including Isaac) took off for a club, and then some of them (including Isaac) returning shortly after that (too expensive and not appealing)
- my night ended slightly earlier than the previous nights ... the sun had not yet shown up, but the sky was no longer dark ... by the time Isaac got home, I was already asleep (technically, Kate was with us for part of the day, so it's only fair to blame her party mission for our silly shenanigans)
- next day, we decided this would be our last day in Bogota ... so for one last time, we tried to eat at Fatima's bar ... and once again we were denied as the cook was still sick!
- we decided to head back towards the movie cinema ... and on the way, we randomly came across this fantastic little Chinese hole in the wall, where the food was dirt cheap and perfectly edible ... better still, they had a homemade garlic hot sauce that made everything taste delicious
- we then walked to the movie cinema but wound up not watching a movie ... instead, we spent a lot of time on the internet, researching bus information to get us to our next location, as well as researching some of the logistics of getting to Trinidad (i.e. how to take a ferry there from Venezuela, and trying to plan out our next few days based on the fact that the ferry only runs on a Wednesday)
- after a while, Isaac headed back to the hostel, while I stayed for a while to get some blogging in ... by the time I headed back, it was again evening ... back at the hostel, Isaac was comfortable in his bed, reading a book ... he wasn't in any mood to go out
- naturally, I headed to the Cranky Crock ... I wasn't in much of a party mood, but it was our last night in Bogota ... might as well at least say goodbye to a few familiar faces ... there were a few tourists there that I knew, as were Lisette, Johanna and "ShowMe" ... we hung out for a little bit, but the entire common area had a case of the Mondays - everyone was partied out and had zero energy left
- many hugs goodbye later, I got to bed at a very decent hour ... my one and only real night-time sleep in Bogota!
- a lot of great times in Bogota ... if not for the cold, I wouldn't hesitate to say it was my favourite stop our on trip thus far ... either way, we'd been away from the heat for way too long, and the beach was calling ... a mere 18 hour bus ride away, Santa Marta was waiting for us
- EoW

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

WEEK 13

Cartagena, Colombia
- the taxis drop us off at the hostel that Fabian has recommended, only it's full!
- a few of us head out and start looking for another place to stay ... fortunately, it seems like every other building is a hostel ... unfortunately, most of them seem to be crap!
- we settle on one called the Marlin ... just around the corner from where we were dropped off, it seemed to have a nice look and feel ... all six of checked in (3 private rooms), and then met downstairs in the lobby/internet area
- here we split up a bit ... Heather, Willie and Laura went back to the Marina to pick up our passports from Fabian; Joe pulled out his new mini-laptop and got it connected to the internet; Isaac went for a nap; and I headed out to see a bit of the city and find an ATM
- turns out Cartagena isn't just hot, it's CRAZY HOT ... reminds me of the "don't move" days of Leon, except I SHOULD be much more acclimated by now ... daily highs were 36 degrees, and it didn't get much cooler at night (but cooler enough that it was possible to go out and enjoy ourselves) ... however, we soon discovered our hostel room wasn't that great, because it was nearly impossible to get cool, and the beds sucked ... so sleeping was always a sweaty, miserable experience
- it also turns out that ATMs in Colombia only let you take out a maximum of approximately $150 USD ($200 if you're super lucky) ... this royally sucked for me, since I have to pay a flat withdrawal fee every time I use the ATM (which was far too often in Colombia)
- the city itself (the old town, where most people stay) is extremely pretty ... many nice Colonial buildings ... the area with all the hostels (Getsemani) is a bit more rundown and sketch (and where you get the frequent offers for cocaine and the like) ... but just a few minutes away is a much nice area of shops and restaurants and park squares ... cleaner, safer, better
- I head back to the hostel, and Joe is worried, because Laura and the others aren't back yet ... turns out they've had a huge delay getting our passports because ... Isaac's passport is missing!!! ... apparently, the guy who took the passports to the airport also took another set of passports, and somehow swapped Isaac's with some girl from Israel!??
- long story short, the gang finally returned to the hostel, but only with 5 passports ... we'd have to get a hold of Fabian later for the sixth
- we then all headed out to find some place to eat dinner ... walking through the nicer area of town, we ran into a couple of free street shows, with pretty impressive dancing
- eventually, Joe and Laura went off on their own, and the remaining four wound up at a restaurant that served pasta and crepes ... we sat outside and enjoyed a pretty nice dinner (we were also able to see some of the dancing from the neighbouring park, as well as hear the live drumming that accompanied it)
- after dinner, we headed back towards the hostel, but wound up going into Cafe Havana
(highly recommened by Fabian)
- Cuban themed, the scene there was pretty fantastic ... live music, everyone dancing and having a blast ... the only negative was that drinks were SUPER expensive (I wound up nursing a single glass of wine for about 4 hours!)
- apparently, the club keeps going until the wee morning hours ... but after the band had finished it's first set, I called it a night (about 1am)
- next day, we find out that some British guy fell off the second floor balcony of his hostel in the middle of the night (he was likely drunk and/or high at the time), and the hostel kicked him out, so now he was staying at our hostel! ... for the next couple of days, anytime any of us were in the lobby area, we'd notice this disturbing pattern ... every 15 minutes or so, this guy would come out of his room, smoke a cigarette, swear a lot (sometimes talking about feeling like crap, sometimes talking about having to go to work the next day, sometimes talking about something/someone being in his room) ... then he'd disappear back into his room for another 15 minutes ... after he'd falled, he had refused any medical attention, and obviously something was pretty wrong with him ... flash forward a few days, and this guy flat out disappears!! ... the cops come looking for him and his bags are in his room, but no one knows where he's gone ... that's the last we heard of him until later on when Joe and Laura informed us that they had contacted the British consulate in Cartagena and voiced their concern for this guy ... it was their email that had prompted the cops to come looking for him that night ... and a couple days later, the consulate emailed Joe back to inform him that they had found this other guy, and he had been sent back home to the UK (although it was vague enough that we can only assume that he was alive when they found him)!! ... crazy stuff, but Joe and Laura may have saved someone's life!
- the next few days, we all mostly split up during the day (the fact that it was too hot to do anything playing a big part in that), and then we'd typically all get together to do something in the evening
- pretty much everyday, Isaac and I would go to our favourite little restaurant for brunch ... we'd get a bowl of soup and a plate of rice, beans, salad, plantains and whichever meat dish we ordered, all for about $2.50!!!! The food was delicious too ... but even better with the juice drinks (jugos natureles) ... for $1.00, we'd get huge glasses of papaya, blackberry, pineapple, orange, etc. ... single fruit or mixed fruit, with milk or without ... always super tasty
- we also found a place that made amazing fried chicken, so that was dinner a couple of nights ... and then Cartagena is just full of street vendors ... skewers, hot dogs, hamburgers, pizzas ... we tried a bit of everything ... some things were good, some things were horrible ... nothing was fantastic (well, this one hot dog we had late one night was close to qualifying ... it was loaded with toppings and sauces ... the only problem was that the weiner itself wasn't all that great)
- during the days, we avoided the heat as much as possible ... typically, this meant spending time in a somewhat air conditioned internet cafe
- we visited Fabian once, to get Isaac's passport (and we got to meet Fabian's son)
- we also hit the big mall in another part of town a few times ... it was big and well air conditioned, and it had a big grocery store (snacks and Isaac was able to get new flip flops after he broke his old pair), a cinema (we saw Righteous Kill, Wolverine (all 6 of us went, I didn't mind watching it a second time), and Terminator 4), as well as a restaurant called the Beer Station (they had their own handcrafted microbrew, that was quite a pleasant treat after all the similar tasting pilsners throughout Central and South America)
- Joe also found a decent bar (other than the fact that it was littered with extremely pretty hookers most nights) in the nicer part of old town that had all the local beers for pretty cheap ... so we went there a few times, and to this day I don't know the real name of the place, I only know it as "Joe's Bar"
- flash forward a few days, and Joe, Laura, Willie and Heather all take off for Bogota ... big goodbyes, especially to Willie and Heather (as we are hoping to run into Joe and Laura again in Medellin)
- just the two of us, Isaac and I quickly discover that there is a perfectly decent beach in Bocogrande - about a half hour walk from our hostel!!
- we wound up hitting that beach almost everyday (after we'd finally discovered it)
- we also moved to a different hostel about a block away from the Marlin ... San Roque is a newer, lesser known place ... run by a very nice family, and the rooms are SO much better ... changing to this hostel and finding the beach were probably our two best moves in Cartagena
- Isaac's friend Kate fly in to Cartagena a couple days after team UK left ... she came to Colombia to hang out with us for just over a week ... operation "party as hard as humanly possible" had officially commenced!!
- we stayed a couple more days in Cartagena, showing Kate around a bit, and hitting the beach (obviously) ... we also watched a World Cup qualifier at a bar with locals ... it was Colombia vs Argentina ... Colombia played much better, but wound up losing ... kind of sucked, but got us in the mood to watch a game live in Medellin (Colombia was going to play Peru there a few days later)
- time quickly became a factor in our plans ... Kate and Isaac wanted as much beach as possible (understandably), but someone needed to get to Medellin in time to secure tickets to the game
- so, Kate and Isaac headed to Playa Blanca (a nearby island known for good beach life) for a couple of day ... they apparently had a blast there ... in the meantime, I decided to head to the bus station ... next stop Medellin!!
- EoW